It was after five, and it was hot. Not as hot as it was at four. Not as hot as it can get. Let's say it was in the low three digits, in the cool hundreds. Girls held their skirts down against the prying wind.
I crossed Paisano at Stanton on the sunny side of the street. I would have crossed to the shade, but the lights weren't making it easy, so I let the sun beat on me like a thousand tiny hammers. Besides, the bars are on the east side of the street.
I turned into the Morocco and got the seat I had hoped for, at the end of the bar with my back against the wall. The Morocco's a dive bar, with broken acoustic tiles in the suspended ceiling and Genuine Draft on tap. Beer kegs, one empty and three full, sat on the floor by the pool table. I ordered a Bud, in Spanish, and made a point to show the pesos in my wallet, but I wasn't fooling anyone.
Fifteen people made the place full. The customers were just off work, in blue jeans and OSHA footwear.
The beer company reps were the exclusive interior decorators at the Morocco. Door size posters covered the doors to both bathrooms. An uncertain hand had written Women and Hombres on the posters with magic marker. The rest of the ambiance was provided by the jukebox blaring rancheras and narco-corridas. An old man spent an unlikely amount of time polishing the jukebox with an off-white terry cloth rag.
An old lady sat next to me. Maybe she was my age, or younger.
Are you FBI? she asked me.
Then, over the course of my beer she told me about her uneventful life. I drank as fast as I could.
Border Patrol? she asked as I got up to leave.
Outside the sun had let up some, so it only felt like 985 little hammers.
I turned left, to get out of the commercial district and into the neighborhood. A block in the buildings turned residential, turquoise and green and yellow, single family dwelling units and the beehives of little two room apartments that date back eighty years or more.
I turned a corner and saw two men in the shade, one sitting on an overturned milk crate and the other leaning on a late sixties Chevy pickup truck.
Hola, I said. I'm interested in the neighborhood, I said in Spanish.
Es tranquilo, the older of the two men said to me. We chatted, just a minute, the three of us, in Spanish, and then Chato, the older one, asked You want a soda?
No, thank you.
Are you sure?
Water, maybe, if it's not a bother.
None, he said.
He walked across the street to a building on the corner. La Nave Gro was painted on the wall. He came back with a plastic bottle of water.
There are good people here, he told me.
No gangs?
No, he said. There used to be, but now no. There are good people here. Well, he said, there are some . . . .
In the whole world there are some of everything, I said. I drank the cool water from the bottle.
The other one, Juan, went to the bed of the truck and picked up a can in a paper sack. He looked down the street before he took a long pull on the can.
In the sixties, this neighborhood was bad, Juan said. You couldn't walk across that intersection without someone putting you on the horns. And Los Cinco Infiernos? Puros malandrines.
The Chamizal hurt Segundo, Chato told me. It used to go to Nineteenth Street. In front of the Benito Juarez Stadium, that used to be Peyton's, he said. The slaughterhouse. He called it la matanza. The killing.
I used to work there, he said.
They say that's hard work.
When one is young and strong . . . .
Chato pointed across the street. That house there, the yellow, he pointed, there used to be a lady that lived there, and she was crazy. Not too crazy, but crazy. She sold cans, and she insisted on getting paid in silver dollars. When she died, everyone expected to find the silver dollars, but nobody did.
A lost treasure.
Yes, a lost treasure.
I'm going to get a beer, I said. Can I invite y'all a beer?
Yes, thank you, said Juan. A Coors Light, like this one. He pulled the 24 ounce can from the bag.
A Busch please, said Chato.
I walked across the street to La Nave. Inside the store was long and narrow, with old-fashioned wood and glass cabinets the length of the store, and glass front refrigerators on one side.
I walked back to the two men, and Chato pulled another milk crate from the back of his truck, and I sat down and we drank our beers, watchful for the police. We sat beside a vacant lot, and halfway back an adobe wall jutted out.
That wall looks old, I said.
Yeah, that's old, Chato said. Pregnant women come and eat the bricks.
Really?
They scrape a little bit, like this, and eat it.
It's clay.
We drank our beers.
What do you think of the plan? I asked.
The plan to knock down Segundo? They should knock down the homes of the rich people, Chato said.
Where they built the new school, Aoy, Juan said, they paid those people thirty thousand. They had lived there their whole lives.
Thirty thousand isn't enough to buy a new house, I said.
Not even a lot for thirty thousand.
I finished my beer and left the can in the bag in the back of the truck. I have to go, I said. We'll see each other.
Until then, they said. And I walked home.


















border yankee
June 5, 2008
good article, and i enjoyed reading it. but i noticed that the pickup has Chi. license plates on it.
are you sure you were in el paso?
Bobby Byrd
June 5, 2008
"The Chamizal hurt Segundo, Chato told me. It used to go to Nineteenth Street. In front of the Benito Juarez Stadium, that used to be Peyton's, he said. The slaughterhouse. He called it la matanza. The killing." Ah, the man said the thing that's been rattling around in my head all this time--What did the Chamizal Treaty do to Segundo? Even the way the Mexican traffic coming across the new bridge had to change drastically. Newspaper Tree should run a map of before the Treaty.
Rubén Olague
June 5, 2008
Mr. Wright:
What do you make of that story?
The possibilities are quite a few:
- Old residents who drink beer live in el Segundo.
- El Segundo's properties have gone down in value.
- El Segundo is filled with obscure corners, which remind people of how bad it used to be.
- El Segundo reminds you of the old west lawlessness.
- El Segundo is poetry.
- You found two interesting characters at El Segundo.
- One should be environmentally friendly when visiting El Segundo.
I’m lost.
frank j. parra
June 5, 2008
segundo barrio south along park street lead to a sub-division called rio linda and only led to thirteenth street, never to ninteenth st.
border yankee
June 5, 2008
....also, i really think the bit about pregnant women eating the clay wall should be explained more. its a bit perplexing.
David K
June 5, 2008
Great stuff. Awesome Writing. I want to be paid to hang out with Rich Wright.
Rich Wright
June 5, 2008
Hey Ruben,
I´m not drawing any conclusions. I´m just telling you what happened. Maybe I´m trying to make Segundo a more human and less mysterious place.
Thanks for reading.
Rich
Al
June 5, 2008
"Los Cinco Infiernos" were actually six tenements that were located where the senior citizens center is now. All six were "infiernos." They were known as "Cinco Infiernos" because one (I think the one on the south) was painted white. I think there is an aerial photograph on the wall in the City Planning Department of Segundo Barrio and Downtown in the 1950's that shows the six "infiernos." It would be really cool if you guys took a high resolution photo of it and post it on the web site so that your readers could see what it was like and maybe use it as a screen background.
By the way, what is the status of the downtown plan? What's going on behind the scenes? What impact has Paul Foster, hard economic times and events in Juaritos had on the plan? Where is Evan Rose? During his brief connection, he certainly left his legacy in El Chuco, probably for decades into the future.
Ever wonder where the names for some of the barrios in El Chuco came from? "El Pujido" where Nolan Richardson grew up? El Catorce, Los Lotes, La Loma?
Enrique Medrano
June 5, 2008
The EPISD paid the homeowners who resided in the block which is now the location of the new AOY elementary school building the amount CAD determined their homes were worth. According to EPISD, these homeowners were paid Market Value for their homes.
The City of El Paso has a policy of paying replacement value to homeowners displaced by eminent domain. However, under the downtown revitalization plan, Bill Sanders' REIT will only pay CAD market value to the displaced homeowners and the City of El Paso (taxpayers) will pay the difference between market value and replacement value. So if a Segundo Barrio homeowner's home is appraised at $25,000 by CAD, the REIT will pay the homeowner the $25,000 and the City of El Paso taxpayers will pay the difference to move the homeowner to another home in the City of El Paso, which will be at least $50,000.
Market value is not enough compensation when a property owner is losing their property under eminent domain. Replacement value is not enough either.
The Texas Legislature needs to enact legislation that compensates citizens fully when their property is taken through eminent domain. Compensation should be provided for all the intangibles that are lost along with the property.
The people who had lived in their homes on South Campbell and South Kansas Streets for decades lost a lot more than a lot and building when EPISD took their property. One lady in her 70's had lived in the same home all her life. Compensation for what was taken from her should have been at least $500,000.00.
Eating Clay
June 6, 2008
Clay eating = pica cravings (wanting to eat dirt, etc). Some pregnant women have these cravings.
OK, OK, so I googled it...
Checho
June 6, 2008
South El Paso is another world. Modernism and technology have yet to remove its simple and rugged identity. How do you change that without losing it? Impossible! Some say don't knock anything down just improve and fix it. Impossible! After 150 years, a class and race of people become well adjusted to adverse living conditions and poverty. After so many years, life becomes a dead end of meager jobs and no desire for formal education. Yet, inside these homes you'll find love and happiness. You'll hear jokes and laughter with music comforting the soul and the practice of respecting God and others.
and yes, we are in El Paso
I am the Walrus
June 6, 2008
Mr. Olague, don't try and find logic in Mr. Right's writings. They are wistful for a time that never existed, and the words represent a quaint image of being neither lost nor found that he is trying to create. It's sort of like marketing to an imaginary market with an imaginary product. Nice to look at, but nothing to hang your hat on. It's literary muzak.
But his writing's primary intent is to show that he can step off his pedestal and be a regular El Pasoan by drinking beer on the sidewalk, just like the rest of us apparently do, and take snapshots of his hometown brethren like they're some sort of dark-skinned antelope on Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Look closely at the photos and you'll see the tracking tags stapled to their ears so he can monitor them to get more fodder for upcoming articles.
How can Mr. Right make such dramatic pronouncements that he's a true El Pasoan and yet treat El Pasoans in the same manner tourists treat trinket peddlers in New Delhi?
Nice writing, no doubt, but even the most beautiful colors need to eventually create a painting that actually expresses something, says something concrete. So, I think Mr. Olague is posing the question: "And the point of the article is?"
Checho
June 6, 2008
Hey Mr. Walrus,
You're a hater!
Rich has no pedestal but a well grounded and genuine concern for El Paso/Juarez. His perspective is one of understanding and respect. I sense that you too have walked the streets of South El Paso & Downtown Juarez because you speak with such authority, assuring us readers that you know what you are talking about.
Why can't you just enjoy and accept his approach, instead of being a divider. We're trying to bring this City together and it's people like you that keep us apart by driving a negative wedge into harmless viewpoints and ideas.
I am the walrus
June 6, 2008
Hi Checho. You are correct, I was born in Segundo, my mother went to school in Segundo -- Aoy -- and, yea, i've walked it, walked into nearly every business in downtown, speak with the dope dealers, the prostitutes, the cops, the gangsters, the businessmen, the advocates, the planners, the vagrants, the wanderers, the Katrina victims, the writers, the musicians, all of the people who circulate through those corridors.
You are incorrect in assuming I'm "a hater" -- a silly term better reserved for Hanna Montana episodes, but I use it only to address your erroneous allegation that I criticize simply for the sake of criticizing. I do not criticize blindly. I think Mr. Right is a great writer, with great visuals accompanying his words. But he uses those skills to mask the fact that he doesn't really understand El Paso. He uses really nice brush strokes for a painting that lacks a picture. It may be enough to lull David K. into gushing mode, but for those of us who know this town, really know it, we are aware that Mr. Right will never be given an honest answer by a Mexican on a street in Segundo. Not today. There's been too much disrespect shown to Segundo and poor Mexican neighborhoods by the mostly white city leadership over the generations for him to be accepted. It's just a sad reality. His affection for this town is admirable, and makes him likeable, but he needs to recognize his voice of authority is clouded by the mist of reverse racism against him by that population of whom he often writes. He can't postulate any authority until he addresses with vigor the sores of our region.
I wish his writing could wash away the years of frustration felt by the underclass, that his words could soothe the wound inflicted upon the poor of this town, in places like Segundo. He has the talent to express something of substance, but amputates that potential by painting stick figures when he can be creating a surging landscape of flame and color. If you have a tool, use it with purpose, if you have steel, dig and cut; if you have iron, pound and bend; and if you have words, inform and inspire, don't just describe.
That is why I challenge him. Because he could be better. You force me to say it so plainly, with such simplistic vulgarity. El Paso needs more than pretty words; they need pretty words that probe and illuminate the real problems that have kept this desert home of ours from prospering.
I like his writing very much, but I feel he lets his readers down by not addressing heavy issues. "Viewpoints and ideas." Please, we need advocates and action. You have a positive spirit, that I clearly sense. And for that you are a good person. But expect more from people as talented as Mr. Right. Expect them to help initiate change, not just allude to the theoretical concept of change and then sit back and enjoy unearned applause.
El Paso deserves more from our talented people -- Walrus
checho
June 7, 2008
Fair enough Walrus. I respect the fact that you took the time to explain your angle. By the way it's Wright, not Right. So I'm not sure if you're playing with words. Anyhow, I'm not one to battle it out with cheap words as others do throughout the internet. So It's good to see that you did not try to rail on me and you stuck to the topic at hand.
I used the word Hater to describe the way I felt after I read your original comment. But now that you've exposed yourself, I can reevaluate my feelings and determine that you are viewing Mr. Wright from a socio-racial perspective. Which is a good thing because nobody really likes to talk about El Paso that way since we live in a "diverse" community.
Lastly, I defend Mr. Wright due to his effort to at least highlight and expose the underbelly of our Metroplex and I would further declare that you and Mr. Wright have a lot common.
I am the Walrus
June 7, 2008
Hi Checho.
Touche to all your points. Keep your spirit warm, it will help those of us who feel great weary at the reality of where El Paso is, and our knowledge of where El Paso should be. And there is a great deal of distance between those two points. I appreciated your words and am hopeful that if more people like you -- and yes, Mr. Wright -- keep reminding us of healing power of unity. But I feel strongly that those of us who have the ability to convey thoughts through the written word need to adequately address the unfairness of the road that has led El Paso into obscurity. But your message was sincere and from the heart. And for that I thank you. -- Walrus.
lv
June 9, 2008
Mr. Walrus,
I have to respectfully disagree with your opinion of Mr. Wright. I have never met a more "true" El Pasoan in my life. After meeting and knowing Mr. Wright for the many years that I have, I can honestly say, he is more Mexican than me. I am not the only one who feels this way, I have heard many Mexicans, Chicanos etc. say it to his face. I am sorry but you are completely off on this one.
I believe you are holding on to the "victim mentality" that does not allow you the see the humble truth Mr. Wright speaks of. So please step back, take a breath and read again.
We have all been put on this earth for a purpose whether we know what that purpose is or not.
lv
June 9, 2008
By the way Mr. Walrus,
Are you not able to read between the lines?
I am the Walrus
June 10, 2008
Mr. Iv, How do you define "Mexican"? Does being Mexican mean you diminish your own Mexican identity by handing over to a non-Mexican the ultimate cultural self-mutilation statement: "You are more Mexican than I am" simply because he can write, especially when that person is not Mexican?
I may be parsing words here, but I think "You know the border better than I do, Mr. Right" would pay a bit more respect to yourself and your identity as a Mexican, and serve as a more meaningful compliment to Mr. Right.
Me, for example. I am not Mexican. I find pride in my Mexican lineage, though. My mother's family came from Mexico to flee Pancho Villa, as they were loyal to Porifirio Diaz. The family just up and left, all their money, all their possessions and came across the border. My grandmother eventually started the first school in the little border village to where they fled, and in her poetry she writes to her fellow refugee mothers: "Every Mexican mother in this strange new land should show their children the fundamentals of American patriotism."
Hand that identity over to someone else because they can use short, descriptive declarative sentences? No way, man. That's your cultural gold. Let others earn it in whatever manner they see fit; but don't give it away like it's a chipped kernel of corn.
And as far as "reading between the lines" that space is empty, always has been. It's a "how's the weather" statement. No, read the lines, eyes fixed heavy on the words. "Reading between the lines" means you 're not reading the ink carved with the real message, and in doing so you become oblivious to the power or the weakness contained therein.
And I say again: El Paso deserves better. -- Walrus.
lv
June 10, 2008
Mr. Walrus,
Obviously you have never met Mr. Wright nor spent any time with him. As far as me saying he is more Mexican than I am, its obviously an embellishing way of saying how "in tune" he is with the culture and the people. He can't be more Mexican than I, it runs in my blood. He can however understand, respect and live the culture and what it has to offer, which I can say he wholeheartedly does. He has the heart and soul of a Mexican.
I have given away nothing, I am proud of who I am and love this city and its people more than most people here and I will fight for it until I die. I remain me with my identity in tact and if anything I am more enriched by reading what Mr. Wright has to say because I know that there is someone else out there who feels the way I do and who has the respect for this community and all it has to offer where many people do not.
By the way reading between the lines is essential in many texts including this one. A complete story is not always in the black and white but within the blank spaces. One can come to understand a thought process, previous experience, bias or an understanding that does not get transferred to the paper. Just read your grandmother's poetry, there is alot more there than meets the eye.
Should I be flattered that you refer to me as Mr.? Chale!
I am the Walrus
June 10, 2008
Mr. Chale,
The only "thought process, previous experience, bias or ... understanding" that can be gleaned from this mythical "between the lines" space is that of the reader, not the writer. That's the problem with the whole "reading between the lines" thing: It's too open to interpretation, it's usually wrong, and is always annoying. "I know you wrote this," you may say to an author, "but I know you really meant this other thing," you say with a sly grin. C'mon.
Understanding a writer's opinion is better based on their words, not on the fog of "between the lines" renderings. Might as well set up a crystal ball next to you after you read something, give a couple of chants, and surmise from the swirls of smoke what the author was "trying" to say, rather than what he actually said. Writers ponder their every word, using them as bricks to build a message. Take that effort serious. Surmising something from the space around words is like complimenting a woman's beauty by feeling the sheets around where she lay. She'd bop you on the head and say "Hello? I'm right here! Why you drooling on my sheets?"
There's a real world around you, Senor Chale, join it, it's not that scary.
lv
June 11, 2008
Mr. Walrus,
Using your argument, then we should throw poetry out the window. Thanks, something less to read now.
I feel so much more enriched by your advice. Welcome to the real world of the ignorant.
That's Ms. Chale to you.
C
June 11, 2008
This is a good example of what many people who live in & out of el segundo think---the city has done a terrible job of selling the plan.
vato
June 11, 2008
You can thank TxDoT for contributing to the ghetto-ization of El Segundo with their mid-century highway project that created Paisano Street. Even its name was a cynical ploy. "Paisano"...as in "yes, you are my paisanos! - so long as you stay on your side." It is a classic example of the "Cordon sanitaire" in the long urban planning tradition implemented in so many cities around the world to create a barrier between the urban "haves" and urban "have-nots". Do you think its location was chosen based purely on traffic engineering reasons? Think again. It is a six or seven lane monstrosity right through the most pedestrian-dense environment in El Paso, a veritable pedestrian gauntlet designed to keep people in their place. It should be narrowed to two lanes and its edges redeveloped. Of course, a barrier works both ways, if you want to keep the yuppies in theirs.
I am the Walrus
June 11, 2008
Ms. Chale, I have no idea what you're talking about. I get the poetry part, and it's a valid point, but welcoming me "to the real world of the ignorant" doesn't make sense. But, by the fact that you're welcoming me there I guess implies that you're already there, so I shouldn't expect too much logic from someone holding a banner saying "Welcome to the world of the ignorant." I think I'll keep driving on past that town, but thanks for the invitation.
Sorry I assumed you were a man. You write in a masculine manner; and that's about as close to reading "between the lines" that I'd care to get.
Chuco
June 14, 2008
Please don't feed the walrus.